BIODIVERSITY OF DYEING PLANTS ISOLATED FROM TERRESTRIAL ENVIRONMENT IN MADAGASCAR ISLAND, INDIAN OCEAN: COE BBE

UNIVERSITE D’ANTANANARIVO

BIODIVERSITY OF DYEING PLANTS ISOLATED FROM TERRESTRIAL
   ENVIRONMENT IN MADAGASCAR ISLAND, INDIAN OCEAN:
            New resources for natural colorants

                                BIOCOLOURS CONFERENCE - 28, 29 May 2018 - BREDA NL

  Mahery ANDRIAMANANTENA1,2, Fanjaniaina FAWBUSH RAZAFIMBELO2, Beatrice RAONIZAFINIMANANA2,
                Laurent DUFOSSÉ1, Pascal DANTHU4 ,Thomas PETIT1,3 and Yanis CARO1,3
     1   Laboratoire de Chimie des Substances Naturelles et des Sciences des Aliments (LCSNSA), Université de La Réunion, Réunion;
                     2 Département Industries Agricoles et Alimentaires - ESSA, Université d’Antananarivo, Madagascar;

                                             3 IUT de La Réunion, Département HSE, Réunion;

                                                         4 CIRAD, Montpellier, France

Plan
1- Introduction

2- Dyeing plants in Madagascar

3- Sector of dyeing plants

4- Extraction tests

5- Future of this sector?

Introduction
PLANTIN Project
This research project focus on the valorization of the
chemo-diversity of dyeing plants of the Indian Ocean
(Madagascar – La Réunion)
→ Potential application on food industries and cosmetics

Madagascar Biodiversity
one of the world’s most important biodiversity
hotspots
83% of plant endemism
92% of vascular plant endemism

Dyeing plants in Madagascar
To date, 237 species listed/identified, divided into 166 genus and 76 families

- 1946 : Decary R. in: “Madagascar 1916 – 1945 : Les Regards d’un administrateur
  ethnographe” and “Plantes textiles introduites ou spontanées de Madagascar”
- 2004: Survey of Missouri Botanical Garden
- 2005 : Etheve A, in: “Teintures naturelles à Madagascar”
- 2005 : Jansen P.C.M, et al. in: “Dyes and Tannins”
- 2014: Cardon D. in: “ Le monde des teintures naturelles”
- 2017: Ethnobotanical survey in the western region of Madagascar (Plantin project)

Dyeing plants in Madagascar
  To date, 237 species identified, divided into 166 genus and 76 families

                                                              Red (32%)
                                                              Yellow (19%)
                                                              Brown (09%)
Range of color                                                Blue (05%)
                                                              Green (11%)
                                                              Black (18%)

Morinda citrifolia                                                   Indigofera arrecta

                          endemic / indigenous / introduced

Dyeing plants in Madagascar
       To date, 237 species identified, divided into 166 genus and 76 families

         Most-used parts of plants

Haematoxylum campechium                                                  Bixa orelanna

Others uses of these dyeing plants species
                                        Fibers
                        Stimulating molecules
                                   Oléaginous
                                 Essential oils
                                        Spices
           Other uses

                             Medicinal plants
                           Sugar and starches
                                       Limber
                                  Edible Fruits
                                       Fodder
                           Ornamental plants
                                   Vegetables
                                       Cereals
                                                  0   50   100          150    200         250
                                                           Number of species

Curcuma                            Harungana                 Carphalea               Opuntia ficus
  longa                          madagascariensis            kirondron                  indica
 (spice)                           (medicinal)             (ornamental)              (edible fruit)

Sector of dyeing plants in Madagascar
- Based on textile
 Sector players : Craftsmen and small companies
Ex: Terre là Sarl, FEM Association
→No plantation

- Natural colors replaced by artificial color for the local
market (cheaper)

Extraction tests:
   -     hot decoction of fresh barks, roots or leaves
   -     Solvent used : 70:30 ethanol:water (v/v)
   -     Evaporated in rotavapor
   -     Dried at 50°C.
   -     extract powder disolved in the same solution at 2g/L

Acridocarpus sp.   Tectonia sp.   Harungana sp.   Ceriops sp.   Xylocarpus sp.   Psiadia sp.

Future of this sector?
- dyestuffs sector of natural sources, respectful of health and the
  environment, is being put forward in the world
- Plants dyes : natural sources of diverse pigmented molecules (red
   anthocyanins and flavonoids, yellow-to-red carotenoids,
   apocarotenoids and betalains, and yellow, orange, red, or purple
   quinones…)
Some exemples of plant dyes:

 Epigallocatechin from    Bixin from       Indigotin from       Tectoquinon from
 Rhizophora apiculata    Bixa orellana   Indigofera tinctoria    Tectonia grandis

Future of this sector?
- 80 % of dyeing plants found in Madgascar are also used as medicinal plants
→most of these plants should be not toxic for human diet

- Promote new and innovative applications
→ Aim of project PLANTIN (Madagascar and La Réunion) :
            Capitalizing the expertise on traditional techniques
                          -before being lost…..
            Studying the chemical, toxicological and biotechnological
                       characteristics of the dye plants extracts
            Optimizing the processes

© Ethève

                                         © Sharing

                        THANK YOU
             © Ethève

© Sharing

                                                       © Cardon

            © Sharing        © Sharing

COMPANY Terre La Sarl, Founder Andrée Mathilde Etheve

De la pourpre impériale extraite de coquillages marins aux étoffes teintes aux écorces et à la boue, les teintures naturelles
étaient, jusqu'à la fin du XIXe siècle, les seules sources de couleurs de tous les textiles utilisés par l'Homme. Elles servaient
aussi à teindre les peaux, les poils, les plumes, l'os et l'ivoire, les bois, elles fournissaient les colorants alimentaires,
cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques et une partie des pigments utilisés en peinture.
Supplantées durant plus d'un siècle par les teintures synthétiques, elles redeviennent aujourd'hui un enjeu économique et
culturel. Invitation à un tour du monde des savoirs sur la teinture par les colorants naturels à travers l'histoire, de l'art, et
de l'artisanat traditionnel, aux recherches scientifiques interdisciplinaires de pointe et leurs applications industrielles, cet
ouvrage offre une synthèse unique des connaissances sur les matières colorantes présentes dans plus de trois cents
plantes et d'une trentaine d'animaux du monde entier.
Près de 600 photos illustrent cet ouvrage représentant, outre les plantes et les animaux tinctoriaux, les textiles et les
objets anciens teints, les teinturières et teinturiers au travail au fil des siècles. Enfin, un appendice chimique regroupe
toutes les structures des colorants naturels étudiés.